Arriving in Bethlehem is no easy feat. This is where we encountered the first of the infamous check points (of which I took no photos because I didn’t want to get shot- they have BIG guns). The check points exist all along the West Bank, to ensure that no one enters or exits without permission. Palestinians living within the West Bank must obtain special permits to leave (rarely given, and usually only given if their profession demands it), and Israeli citizens are not allowed in due to safety concerns. The enclosure is enforced by a giant, thick, grey wall, peppered with watch towers full of IDF soldiers (more about the wall in a moment). Fortunately for us, we were all American citizens (with the exception of our two green card holders- but they had all the appropriate paperwork), so after a brief inspection we cruised on through. Regardless of the amount of hassle you encounter while crossing the check point, it’s pretty uncomfortable having two armed soldiers board your bus and patrol the aisles.
My experience in Bethlehem was unique for many reasons. It was where we stayed in the nicest hotel of our trip, which was a welcome gift after the Negev mud huts. It’s also where any pre-existing stereotypes I had about the Palestinian people were shattered. I’ve spent my life reading about Palestinians, talking about Palestinians, defending Palestinians- but truly interacting with very few. Though I expected them to be kind, welcoming, and hospitable, I expected them to be very different than us. As a people with a culture rich in tradition, I guess I thought they would feel…foreign? Between our time at the hotel pool and our evening in the hookah bar watching the World Cup (and of course through interactions with students for the remainder of the trip), I was continuously surprised to hear American top hits, to see women dressed like me, to watch young people flirt, to witness as much or more sports enthusiasm than I see at a Denver Broncos Superbowl playoff, and to simply observe as our students and their students interacted as though they had no differences. However, the people have not lost their identity- they have simply added to it. We were still surrounded by an abundance of hummus, hookahs, and traditional Palestinian dancing. We still learned useful Arabic phrases and were taught how to properly wrap a hijab (head scarf). This evening was the first of my many bouts of spontaneous, embarrassing, and uncontrollable tears, as I looked in the smiling faces of these young dancers and thought, this is who people are afraid of?

The next day in Bethlehem was spent at the Wi’am Conflict Resolution Center. This is where we met Zoughbi al-Zoughbi (what a rad name), who I personally think should be the leader of the Palestinian people. The little time we had with him was, for me, probably the most valuable experience of the trip. His compassionate words, his passion for non-violence, his commitment to relieving the suffering of his people, his wisdom, and his lack of defensiveness were an inspiration to all of our students. He said so many things that resonated with me, but my favorite was when he was asked his opinions about emails that circle around comparing photos of the Holocaust to photos of current living conditions in Gaza and West Bank refugee camps. The emails of course intend to draw comparisons between both horrors, making a pretty harsh and controversial political statement that brings out forms of anger in almost every viewer. Zoughbi thought for a moment, and then told us that he prefers to avoid contests of victimhood, as he sees that to be a weapon that can only destroy peace. Emails or conversations such as this only serve to enrage people, putting them in a position to defend themselves or accuse others. Instead, Zoughbi would rather focus on ways to alleviate suffering, not publicize it. He would rather focus on the positive experiences and attributes of all people in Israel so as to encourage these actions and behaviors to continue. He would rather focus on peaceful, compassionate dialogue, not on destructive blame games. Zoughbi, who has to recycle the used water from his washing machine to fill his toilets, has only love to give and ideas to share. I think everyone could learn a lot from spending time with Zoughbi, and I hope his program continues to grow and prosper.

Zoughbi :)
Now here I go contradicting everything I just said, as I share a little about the wall and the refugee camp. While I feel it’s important not to dwell on these situations, and rather to think about ways to make progress, I think people at least need to know the facts to be able to accomplish anything. First, we walked along the wall that divides Israel and the West Bank. Most people living within the West Bank find it to be oppressive, degrading, demeaning, and unsafe. Most Israelis find it to be necessary as a means of protection, after years of enduring bombs and rocket fire. It’s a very touchy and complicated situation. As one Israeli put it to one of our students, “the wall will not come down until every Palestinian can guarantee that not one Israeli will be harmed”. I do understand that logic, but that will never happen. No matter what occurs, as with any political or social issue in the world, someone will be unhappy and may act out. It doesn’t mean that their actions reflect the mentality or desires of their entire people, just because they happen to share a nationality. Are you responsible for Sarah Palin’s helicopter wolf hunting? Do you want Timothy McVeigh representing you? I know I’m coming off one sided here, but it’s not because I don’t understand the severity of the security risks that Israelis fear, and it’s not because I don’t sympathize with people who lost loved ones to terror attacks. It’s because I don’t think any true, peaceful progress can come about while the wall exists. I don’t think Palestinians and Israelis can truly come to the table and discuss solutions while the Palestinians feel like second class citizens being babysat by guns. I feel this way because I want comfort and safety for Israelis, and while the intentions behind the wall make sense, they aren’t constructive. I think it is a band-aid, a temporary solution that won’t fix a larger problem. Two nations will never be at ease with a giant wall diving them. I really didn’t intend for that to be such a rant, I just wanted to post some photos of graffiti…so here they are:



Next we ventured into Ayda refugee camp- I’ll try to keep this short because this post is going on forever. Primarily, people are living in this camp for one of two main reasons. The foremost is that they can’t afford to leave. Job opportunities are rare, and the Palestinian economy has difficulty developing in the West Bank due to isolation and lack of resources. The second reason is that some people choose to stay in these camps, because if there is an eventual reconciliation, inhabitants of refugee camps will be the first groups allowed to return to their family’s hometown. I don’t entirely understand this concept (concept? law? promise? rule? I really don’t know), but I’m trying to learn more about it. Life in the camp is pretty awful. The main fact that got to me is that people living here are only allowed two hours of running water per week. This is the water for cleaning, bathing, drinking, cooking, etc. If they aren’t able to collect enough in those hours, they’re out of luck, because there sure isn’t a freshwater river running through Ayda. What struck me most about the children living here is that they were still full of love, joy, and energy. When we approached a group of young kids and asked permission to take photos of them, they immediately ran up, surrounded one of our students, took his hand, and started posing. It was almost as though they sensed that he was having a rough day (he was very ill), as they enthusiastically grabbed at him and smiled.

Holden with his new friends
It’s moments like this that make me truly believe that the future of this peace process is in the hands of the youth. They are still young enough to feel compassion for all people, and they are still relatively colorblind when it comes to race and religion. The problem is that we need to get to these children fast, before they become jaded and biased. Today’s children quickly become tomorrow’s angsty teens who quickly become the next day’s resentful adults. I am hopeful that programs like Zoughbi’s can make a dent in this cycle.
So, that’s Bethlehem. I understand that my not entirely unbiased reporting of this trip can be controversial and that many people probably have strong opinions about my opinions, and I always welcome discussion or debate. I certainly don’t know all the answers or solutions, and I’m eager to learn more. I’m of the opinion that the more stories I hear, the better equipped I will be to compassionately understand all perspectives, so feel free to comment here or email me.
Thoughts?